Designer Spotlight: Dior Resort 2015 Collection

Fashion houses are often the very entities that create the trends we follow. They come up with a collection that encapsulates the mood of the season, while the media and the public pick up singular elements to incorporate in our outfits. Sometimes though, fashion houses can also become the subjects of trends rather than the agents. After Alexander Wang showed his collection at the Brooklyn Navy Yard in February, there seems to be a general desire in the world of fashion to follow the unconventional footsteps of the young American designer. Raf Simons from Dior presented his resort collection in Brooklyn as well, as the Dior guests travelled from Manhattan on a bright yellow ferry with the house logo, escorted by sailors dressed in Dior uniforms who offered free champagne and fruit juice. Now even houses like Chanel and Louis Vuitton are taking these extravagant events into consideration. In fact, since resorts feel more like intimate parties rather than runway shows, they are a great opportunity to display a line in front of the press and sell in bigger quantities than usual. “Resort collections are obviously where you take care of the reality aspect of fashion,” Raf Simons said in an interview with The New York Times. “I like to see my clothes worn.”

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Although it might seem like an innocent wish, it’s actually not that uncommon for designers to choose pre-seasonal collections to focus on practicality and wearability, leaving creativity and innovation to be the undoubted protagonists of the more spectacular S/S, A/W and Couture shows. In case of Dior, the sense of practicality did not compromise the elegance of the French house, but it rather added a touch of gaiety in the bold abstract prints that could remind you a bit of Céline S/S ‘14 collection. The silhouettes were feminine and pretty: often in soft hourglass shapes, but also tightly cinched at the waist and over the rib cage, to elongate the figure. The clothes were not as structured as usual, but rather breezy and fluid, infused with youthfulness and vivacity.

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The asymmetry that we saw in Christian Dior A/W 2015 collection was re-proposed here in flowy skirts that left one leg uncovered and even in some necklines, folded toward the front to leave one shoulder naked. Some of the necklines were boxy, like silk scarves tucked in incredibly high-waist heavy skirts. The silk scarf so idiosyncratic of French fashion was the inspiration behind the collection and it’s therefore not a surprise to see lace carrés juxtaposed one over the other to create lovely dresses in bright hues.  The macramé was particularly appropriate considered the cruise setting, while the fringes on the bottom edge of the coats, like distressed hemlines, and the organza dresses gave the collection a youthful vibe in the wake of Simons’ last collection. To counteract the brightness of the colours and the bold prints, Simons included plenty of black, making it possible to satisfy virtually any woman’s taste and needs. In the collection you’ll find 66 pieces and something for everybody, regardless of your age. Even if Simons was criticized for having created a collection that was strictly “commercial,” it’s impossible not to applaud this more realistic and wearable approach towards fashion that the house has taken.

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Written by: Alice Demurtas

Photo Sources: http://www.glamobserver.com/dior-cruise-2015-fashion-show-ny/
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/christian-dior-pre