Chanel Resort 2015 Collection

Nobody in the fashion world manages to transform a simple runway show into a shockingly entertaining performance quite like Karl Lagerfeld. Not a big fan of subtlety, Lagerfeld is known for his flamboyant exhibitions where the background space is as important as the clothes themselves. Thus, this year, in line with his past shows and the successful Dior Resort event in Brooklyn, NY, Lagerfeld chose an artificial island off the coast of Dubai as the location for his pre-summer 2015 collection.
The environment greatly influenced the results of Lagerfeld work, as it often happens with Chanel (think of the Wild West collection shown in Dallas, TX last December.) The ambience was luxurious and exotic; the guests sat on soft cushions eating falafel around low tables, while lanterns all around the room set the perfect Arabic-inspired atmosphere. “It is my idea of a romantic, modern Orient, a new One Thousand and One Nights,” Lagerfeld commented.


Indeed, the nods to Middle East fashion were countless. You could spot delicate pointy slippers, open on the heel and tied around the ankle; short tunics in decayed tweed layered over see-through trousers; bouncy, and large Harem pants that were as flowy and loose as a skirt.
While a lot of the looks felt distant from what we are used to wear now and were often quite ladylike, there was still a touch of youthful spirit in the short shift dresses, which were simple in shapes and textures; in an interesting patchwork coat in small carrés that could remind you of Portuguese azulejos although in multicoloured flowers; in gorgeous jackets that looked as if they were created with real blooming flowers.



The collection received a lot of criticism, especially from old Chanel aficionados who see in this line a drastic change of course from what is the traditional essence of the brand. The majority of the looks were layered pieces in the same print, fabric or texture – head-to-toe; but if the desired effect was supposed to be effortless and elegant, in reality it felt quite complicated to pull off. Nevertheless, if there is one thing to be said about Karl Lagerfeld, it’s that his shows are always mesmerizing to watch. You might not like the clothes, but you cannot fail to appreciate the meticulous work behind them, the embroidered details and, why not, even Lagerfeld’s sharp humour (have you seen the gasoline tank bag that ironically points at Dubai’s main source of wealth?). Some of the tweed ensembles were finely embellished with small diamonds that made the models sparkle in the daintiest of ways, while the heels with light-up soles were definitely less subtle and a lot more ’90s (in a fun way). The show closed with a loose black tunic and Harem trousers decorated with sparkly paillettes that traced the skyline of Dubai on the hem of the top. All to sum up what Chanel is today: decadent, luxurious and in constant evolution.



The gasoline tank bag



Written by: Alice Demurtas

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