An Adventurous Paris
Consistency is crucial to big fashion houses. It ensures the customer’s sense of belonging to the Maison as well as establishes a certain style or silhouette making the clothes instantly recognizable. Plus, when a designer mixes it up a bit things begin to get fun. Not only does the exploration of unknown worlds enlarge the target market,it affords the customer the ability to explore a new side of the director’s creativity that one has never seen. An attachment to tradition and identity makes for a good collection, but challenging an established vision of a brand makes for a truly memorable one.
Louis Vuitton. Though accustomed to Ghesquière’s 70s style and his A-line skirts, tight tops and laser-cut leather the new Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer collection might look a little too out of context. However, Ghesquiere left remembrances of the past when jumping ahead successfully into the future. A future of electronic games heroines in flesh and bones with a cool attitude and an aggressive wardrobe. A wardrobe style that goes from futuristic mesh dresses to costume peasant blouses and leather waistcoats. Perhaps it’s the overdose of Marvel movies that help make female warriors all the more realistic and appealing. Unfortunately, despite the fact you’ll never see a credible Black Widow in a studded leather crop top, Jessica Jones might be the right Louis Vuitton customer. Whether in flappy studded skirts or soft high-waist trousers, the LV girl is ready to kick ass at anytime. Especially after a hard days work in one of her trustworthy leather jackets: pink, patchwork or classic black. In the end, it doesn’t matter what she chooses: the clothes are just a beautiful frame to a strong personality – like second skin for a girl who is always ready to seize the day.
Saint Laurent. The works of Hedi Slimane exude eternal controversy. Unlike those appealing to young customers with clothes exuding indifference towards the rest of the world, his clothes always look the same. As if they were picked up at a Los Angeles thrift shop – a little kitsch, a little vulgar – the clothes seem to be made to defy any rule of decorum. This can explain Slimane’s ability to get away with sending a pair of jeans and a t-shirt on the catwalk, as he did in Paris. He knows his public and how easily the simplest pieces sell because they speak to the everyday girl. It’s not surprising, then, to see that Slimane took the concept of everyday wear and applied it to an entire collection. The hipster vintage vibe was still there, with oversized denim jackets, soft fur (yes, for summer!) and dungarees. However, if his past lines included aggressively torn tights and 80s slinky black dresses, this time around he locked that devilish girl into a cage and gave wings to her angelic side. Grunge slip dresses made their appearance in sparkly dust pink, transparent floral lace and 1920s-inspired tassels, but the real surprise was in the gorgeous gowns that opened and closed the show. As the Saint Laurent girl matures, Slimane provides her with beautiful strap gowns in fluid black fabrics and metallic silk as a celebration of her still unripe sensuality.
Céline. Implementing change doesn’t necessarily have to do with style or silhouette. Envisioning a new environment and function for the clothes makes a difference, too. For a designer dedicated to urban life, minimal décor and practicality such as Phoebe Philo, moving her focus to outdoor adventures seems like a big challenge. Indeed, while her latest Parisian collection would make a traveler cringe with the idea of wearing such clothes, during a cross-country backpacking trip, they carry a fresh attitude and casual lines that go hand in hand with idyllic holidays in the nature. Sleepwear-like dresses in white silk and black lace would look gorgeous against a tan, while sporty crop top pared with light mini skirts. This also makes for a great outfit to explore around. Although it still seems like Philo has never set a foot in the countryside let alone a country below the Netherlands, the cupola-like sleeves on crisp cotton dresses and typical Céline loose lines adapt well to an afternoon in the park. It might be the closest you’ll get to green grass but you’ll surely do it in style.
Written by: Alice Demurtas
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